Postcards from Santorini
We head for Greece and come back loaded with fresh herbs and some fancy-schmancy medieval jewellery as well!
ATHENS
Views of the Acropolis
Day 1 The first day, we were warned by a well-meaning gentleman to be careful and vigilant all the time. Yet, we managed to get scammed by a taxi driver - once. I sat at the stunning rooftop restaurant at Hotel Athens Gate. It was sunrise and a crust of crimson clouds gathered over the Acropolis, everyone kept going to the veranda to capture this during their breakfast, and the glimmering scene at night.
It was surreal, to say the least.
SANTORINI
Day 1 The sunshine bounces off the white and blue houses, the mountains are etched against the gleaming seas and in the sky, puffy white clouds look suspended - think 3D – so low you feel you can trace their craggy outlines. The beach has black pebbles, forget your pearly seaside, and a fringe of restaurants with their display of seafood, and tourist shops line the promenade; outside everyone is mask-less and in good spirits, and making the most of a wonderful September that will quickly slip into winter and a closed season here.
Day 2 I found a henna stand here; Mohammed Robiul, the henna artist is from Bangladesh and had learned his craft f rom a friend in Athens. “Since then, I never looked back - it’s 15 years now and my trade offers me my livelihood,” he says with a smile. He uses black ink, not the traditional henna that takes ages to dry and peel off from your skin – here it’s only half hour drying, and the effect is equally attractive, he assures me. You can pay anything between 10 euros to 50 euros to get your hands designed. A pretty, little girl hops by, she wants her hands hennaed. Her name is Maria, and like her family, she plays the harmonium for diners. She plays a tune for me, and I offer to get her hands hennaed. Both she and I are happy. As in many beach resorts, the mood is to loll around, soak in the sun, the sea, and the tzatzikis and Greek pitas (my daily lunch for 4 days! Greek yogurt does not taste sour here, it lends a creamy flavour to the dip, making it utterly delicious!) Walking in Santorini is often trudging on inclines, and up and down steps; so, you can never be rested enough before venturing out to sightsee. Or shop! My sister and I decide we MUST eat rice. The Asian in us is rebelling; while it is great having cheeses and salads and flavourful fava beans with crisp pitas - (highly recommended is this wonderful eatery called Scaramagas, where we are serenaded with an old Hindi tune by a good-looking staff member. It's such small things that make travel so delightful!
Past the Irish pub, we find a nice Chinese restaurant called Kiwi, and we order rice and tofu, and stir-fried vegetables. Being strictly vegetarians (no, eggs are not vegetarian, and incidentally vegetarians do eat dairy products) this was a boon. Note to myself: Carry a bagful of vegetarian biscuits and snacks on next trip to Greece!
Shopping is fabulous in Santorini as it was in Athens. We love the white shirts, togas, dresses embellished with gold everywhere. The jewellery is handcrafted, and mythology is etched on the simplest artefacts: actually, everything is redolent of India here but with a stylised European accent. Reminder: Must go back ONLY to shop in Athens!
Day 3 Sunset in Oia: We opt to have a hotel van and driver; it made the strolling on sharp cobblestone winding alleys a little easier with a guide. The much-touted sunset is spectacular in Oia, but I was more intrigued by a castle in the backdrop, with hordes of people glued to its façade. On the steps where I find a place to sit, a baby perched on her father’s shoulder behind, gurgles and chats non-stop; her childish delight spills into the outdoors and makes the postcard setting – sunset, spreading like raspberry jam - over a luminous landscape - even more special. I must say though, I have seen some totally inspiring sunsets in Dubai, especially in earlier days when the skies were relatively free from glinting skyscrapers.
Day 4 I am ready to head for home; my sister is enchanted and could live here for much longer. My daughter is a city girl who finds herself surprised by the beauty of Santorini when she takes an early morning walk. She declares she is not a beach person and makes plans to explore other urban retreats in Europe.
Sunrise in Kamari